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| 1、国外天然活性物在化妆品领域研发与应用 |
2、功能化妆品连载论文集
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第一章
功能化妆品概要
1.1 功能化妆品的界定
1.2 功能化妆品历史
1.3 功能化妆品类型
1.4 中国与美国对化妆品和药品法规管理
1.5 功能化妆品在发达国家法规管理比较 |
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功能化妆品创新研究-连载论文集
(中英文对照)
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目 录
第一章 功能化妆品概要
1.1功能化妆品的界定
1.2 功能化妆品历史
1.3 功能化妆品类型
1.4 中国与美国对化妆品和药品法规管理
1.5 功能化妆品在发达国家法规管理比较
1.6 西欧美国和日本对功能化妆品的不同见解
第二章 功能化妆品技术配方类别
第三章 全球个人护理品(包括功能化妆品)市场趋势与前景
3.1全球个人护理市场的概貌
3.2 世界10大护肤品公司概述
3.3 世界人口老年化驱动功能化妆品需求
3.4 功能化妆品发展趋势
第四章 功能化妆品活性成分
4.1 功能化妆品活性成分的功能表现
4.2 欧洲美国功能化妆品所用的植物提取物
4.3 可用于功能化妆品的中国植物提取物
4.4整体考查研发化妆品新活性成份的安全性
第五章 现代科学技术和分析方法促进功能化妆品发展
5.1研究皮肤生理学的现代技术
5.2 应用激光扫描共聚焦显微技术
5.3采用先进的分析方法学
第六章 结论
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第一章 功能化妆品概要
1.1功能化妆品的界定
在过去的10多年里,作为化妆品和制药工业革新,以及消费者对化妆品态度转变的结果,化妆品和药品的界线因为交叉而更加模糊不清,见Fig1-1,
由于这种交叉,化妆品和类似药物功效的新类别产品已经出现。比如,尽管美国食品药物管理局 (FDA)没有将功能化妆品(Cosmeceuticals)定义为独立类别,但是该术语已经被派生出来,并且被化妆品制造厂商者,迫不及待地用于描述化妆品和药品组合的一类产品。

来源:Front line strategic Management Consulting. Inc.
Fig1-1
功能化妆品可定义为:化妆品和药物益处相结合,并能改善人们容貌,促使其生理改变的化合物3,见Fig1-2。
或功能化妆品:是来自化妆品和药物的混合物,可增加容貌的美丽,而且也具有影响机体结构或功能,或具有减轻、治疗或预防疾病的医疗作用。

Fig1-2
功能化妆品:是用以描述这样一种化妆品的术语,即这种化妆品含有对人体产生影响的生物活性成分。
字典没有对功能化妆品术语进行定义,目前在欧洲它有点太边缘化,以致还不能成为主流语言。在欧洲有些人仍然拒绝接受功能化妆品的存在,但该术语在美国市场很流行。
不管有多少种说法,我们将把功能化妆品定义为:产生或声称对人体有功效益处的一类化妆品。这些可以是生理上的或甚至是心理上的。并且,肯定地,它们的确对商业目的是有用的。
每天都有越来越多的术语,用来描述我们正在称为功能化妆品这类日用品。这些包括:
美容增补剂;活性化妆品;效能化妆品;生物活性化妆品;植物化妆品;功效化妆品
皮肤治疗剂;皮肤药物;化妆品药物;疗效性化妆品。
当然,这些术语不都是一样的,在有些情况下,使用者正试图对一些产品类别进行正确地区分;在另一些情况下,使用者可能会简单地"将新酒装入旧瓶"。
美容增补剂基本上是天然营养保健类产品,通过口服产生美容效果,它们通常以胶囊形式使用,但有时以汤剂或甚至酊剂形式使用。
活性化妆品包括"活性"成分,可能不产生许多令人满意的健康益处,然而使用类似效能化妆品或功效化妆品的术语意味着:它们比一般化妆品表现出一些较有用的功效。
比如:皮肤治疗剂和皮肤药物只能简单地归为功能化妆品中的一小类,而化妆品药物被美国食品药物管理局定义为:化妆品和药物相组合的产品,这类产品包括含氟牙膏,抗头皮屑香波,也必须符合人体健康,化妆品卫生和安全法规。由于世界上现有的化妆品卫生和安全法规,和全球文化存在着不同的差异,造成对功能化妆品的许多不同解释;并且不同的国家正在使用上述多种短语和术语,来表达功能化妆品。
1. The Cosmeceuticals Overview
1.1 The definition of cosmeceuticals
Over the past more than 10 years, as a result of innovation
in both the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries and
as a result of changing consumer attitudes forwards
cosmetics, the line between cosmetics and drugs has
blurred with this intersection, a new category of products
has emerged that with this intersection, a new category
of products has emerged that offers both cosmetic and
drug-like benefits, Though the Food & Drug Administration
does not define a separate category of cosmeceutical
the term has been derived and driven by marketplace
participants to describe the interface between cosmetic
and pharmaceutical products.
Cosmeteutical can be defined as compounds that combine
cosmetic and therapeutic benefits, improving the patient's
appearance or promoting physiologic change.
Cosmeceutioals, hybrid products derived from cosmetics
and drugs, enhance aesthetic appearance, but also make
therapeutic claims with respect to affecting structure
or function of the body or mitigating, treating, or
preventing disease.
Cosmecenticals is the term used to describe cosmetics
containing ingredients that are bioactive, exerting
effects on people.
There is no dictionary definition for the term cosmeceutical-it's
a little too peripheral to have made it into mainstream
language just yet in Europe many still refuse to accept
the existence of cosmeceuticals at all, claiming the
term to be little more than a US marketing gimmick .Be
that as it may, for the purposes of this article, we'll
define cosmeceuticals as "a category of cosmetic
products that produce or claim to produce therapeutic
benefits." These may be physiological or even psychological.
And, yes, they certainly can be useful for marketing
purposes.
Every day there seem to be more and more terms describing
what we are referring to as cosmeceuticals. These include:
Beauty supplements
Active cosmetics
Bio-active cosmetics
Phytocosmetics
Functional cosmetics
Dermaceuticals
Skinceuticals
Cosmetic drugs
Therapeutic cosmetics
These terms are of course, not all identical, in some
cases, the users are trying to make some valid distinctions
between product categories in others they may be simply
trying to "Put new wine into old bottles"
Beauty Supplements are basically a nutraceutical sub-category
featuring products intended or claimed to produce beauty
from within like dietary supplements, they are generally
consumed as capsules, or less frequently as tisanes
or even tinctures.
Active cosmetics include 'active' ingredients that
may not produce desirable health benefits, while terms
like performance or functional imply they perform some
useful task or function beyond the cosmetic.
Terms like dermaceuticals and skinceuticals simply
refer to a narrow group of cosmeceuticals, whereas cosmetic
drugs are products that the US Food and Drug Administration
defines as combinations of cosmetics and drugs. Such
products include fluoride toothpaste and anti-dandruff
shampoos, and they must comply with both health and
cosmetic health and safety regulations. The term therapeutic
cosmetics may be the best one to describe the role and
purples of cosmeceuticals without raising unnecessary
legal debate.
In general, the difference in global cultures and
existing regulations around the world would lead to
many different interpretations of a cosmeceutical, and
already different countries are some a using a variety
of above -mentioned phrases or terms for cosmeceuticals.
See Fig 1 - 1 .
The source: Front line strategic Management Consulting.
Inc.
Fig 1 - 1

Fig 1 - 2
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1.2 功能化妆品历史
尽管功能化妆品这个术语,最初由美国皮肤学家阿尔伯特克利格曼医学博士,在20世纪70年代制造出来,但埃及人是有史以来,最早认识到化妆品能有保健的作用。考古学家已经发掘出一些古代化妆品罐,在其化妆品罐上所写的象形文字是说:"对视力有益"和"止血"。公元前1600年书写的医用莎草纸,经常涉及到许多功能化妆品。特别受人喜爱的是使用蜂蜜和牛奶的制剂,据说蜂蜜和牛奶有助于治疗皮肤疾病。而其他由乳香、植物油和石蜡按等比例制造的产品,声称能消除面部皱纹。
对于许多中世纪的阿拉伯医生和他们的欧洲同行来说,化妆品、香精和草药之间没有什么区别。他们所做的研究和试制工作,同时也覆盖了这些学科。化妆品和洗涤工业从医药领域中分离出来,是19世纪当现代制药工业开始发展,当第一个管制药物销售的政府法令实施以来,所出现的现象。
在近来的50多年里,有点讽刺性的是,医生和公众过分关注化妆品,引起的过敏反应。化妆品作为有效帮助治愈的作用被忽视,直到它在20世纪70年代末和80年代初,才被重视。
克利格曼通过开发能改善紫外损伤皮肤外表和抗皮肤皱纹的制剂,重新点燃人们对化妆品的兴趣。在此,他使用维甲酸作为活性成分。维甲酸已被证实:具有消除细小皱纹、减少衰老角质症,和促使胶原形成的能力。
克利格曼认为:新的化妆品技术"使得在皮肤护理品中,加入数量不受限制的活性物质成为可能,这些活性物质来自自然资源-来自植物、海洋、地球以及宇宙,包括那些由化学家合成的令人心动的物质名单。比如:维生素和抗氧化剂、抗炎、影响情绪的香味、胎盘、羊水血清和众多的激素,选择的范围十分广泛。"
1.2 Cosmeceutical History功能化妆品历史
Although the term cosmeceutical was first coined by
American dermatologist Albert Kligman.MD. PhD. in the
late 1970s, the Egyptians were the first to recognize
the health-giving properties of cosmetics. Archaeologists
have unearthed several cosmetic jars whose hieroglyphics
say "good for sight" and "stops bleeding"
The "Ebers." a medical papyrus written in 1600
BC, make frequent reference to a number of cosmeceutical-type
products. A favorite was a formulation using honey and
milk that claimed to help cure skin diseases. While another
product mentioned in the Ebers, claiming to "expel
wrinkles from the face." was made from frankincense
balantine oil, rush oil and wax, in equal proportions.
To many medieval Arab physicians and their European
counterparts, there were no distinctions between cosmetics,
fragrances and herbal drugs. Their research and development
work covered all these disciplines simultaneously. The
separation of the cosmetic and toiletnes industry from
drugs and pharmacy was a 19th century phenomenon that
occurred when the modern pharmaceutical industry was first
developed and when the first government statutes regulating
the sale of drugs were drafted.
During the next 50 years, both doctors and the public
were, somewhat ironically, preoccupied with the allergic
reactions caused by cosmetics The role of cosmetics as
a positive healing aid was ignored until its revival in
the late 1970s and early'80s.
Kligman rekindled interest by developing formulations
to improve the appearance of UV-damaged and wrinkled skin,
using retinoic acid as the active ingredient retinoic
acid has proven ability to diminish small wrinkles, reduce
senile
keratosis and support collagen formation.
Kligman said novel cosmetic technology" makes it
possible to incorporate in skin care products an unlimited
number of active substances from natural sources-from
plants, sea, the earth and next .the universe. The list
of beckoning substances including those synthesized by
chemists is staggering It includes vitamins and antioxidants.
anti-inflammatory, mood-influencing fragrances, placenta,
amniotic fluid serum and numerous hormones, the chooses
range from the preposterous to the persuasive."
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1.3 功能化妆品类型
(1)按通常使用来划分,功能化妆品被分为下列各部分:
皮肤护理:包括防晒和其他皮肤护理品;
头发护理:包括洗发香波、护发剂和保护头皮健康的护发品;
身体护理:包括除臭剂和广泛范围的个人护理品;
化妆护理:包括护甲、护眼和彩妆美容产品。
大多数功能化妆品绝多数是皮肤护理品,特别强调防晒品类;其次第二大类是护发品。
(2)按性别化使用来划分,功能化妆品被分为:
在男性中,潜在功能化妆品使用的关键领域是:
头发再生、抗衰老、抗头皮屑、抗汗、抗皮炎、抗牙齿腐蚀、抗脚癣以及作为收敛剂;
在女性中,功能化妆品最多数用于:
抗皱纹、丰乳、苗条(抗脂肪团)、脱毛、口腔卫生、皮肤变棕色、皮肤美白、细胞再生复原、抗自由基、抗静脉曲张。
在这个世界人口老龄化的当今,人们心里将青春与美丽联系在一起,对于女性,不断使用抗衰老面霜和皮肤美白产品,将构成不断增长的化妆品消费大市场。最近几十年,最流行和最有争议的功能化妆品,有些含有果酸:α-羟基酸(AHA)和β-羟基酸(BHA),它们都是非常流行的"抗衰老物质"。
红血丝是另一个美容的疑难问题,在这个领域中,生物化妆品和植物化妆品正愈加流行。许多植物药材,特别是葡萄叶提取产品,已经被成功地开始应用,减缓红血丝的局部面霜,也正日益进入市场。(今后继续连载)
1.3 cosmeceutical category功能化妆品类型
(1) The cosmeceuticals are frequently divided into the
following sub-sectors:
Skin care: including sun care and other skin-care products
Hair Care: including shampoos, conditioners and scalp-health
products
Body Care:including deodorants and a wide range of toiletries
Decorative: including nail care. eye care and color cosmetics
The majority of cosmeceuticals has been for skin care
with special emphasis on the sub-category of sun care
the next biggest category is hair care.
(2) Cender-specific Cosmeceuticals 性别化功能化妆品
Amongst men. the key areas of potential cosmeceuticals
use are:
Hair regrowth, anti-ageing, anti-dandruff, anti-perspirant,
for dermatitis, tooth decay, athlete's, tooth decay, athlete's
foot and as an astringent.
In females, cosmeceuticals are most used for:
Anti-wrinkle, breast firming and enlargement, anti-cellulite,
hair removal, oral hygiene, tanning, skin whitening, cell
recovery, preventing free radicals, varicose-vein treatment.
For women, anti-ageing creams and sin-toning products
comprise an ever-grooving market in all societies where
ageing populations associate youth with beauty. Some of
the most popular and controversial cosmeceuticals in recent
times have been the fruit acids alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA)
and beta-hydroxy acid (BHA), both highly popular"
anti-ageing substances."
Varicose veins is another problem area where bio-cosmetics
and phyto-cosmetic are becoming increasingly popular.
A number of botanicals, especially vine leaf extract products,
have been successfully launched, while topical creams
to alleviate the problem also are increasingly finding
their way onto the market.
(今后继续连载)
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